Avid readers will know that in mid November, a large troop of us took advantage of Mr O’Leary’s kind offer of flight to ‘München West’ as the Allgäu Airport has now been renamed by Ryanair. Early research had suggested that Memmingen may be a destination in its own right. However, when it came to booking accommodation, the choices were quite restricted.
Unfortunately the Ryanair flight from Edinburgh connects with the worst possible train to Ulm, a whole hour instead of a possible 23 minutes or so. There was still some light when Marg and Hector arrived at Ulm Hbf. Boy was it cold. The Comfor Hotel, Blaubeurer Strasse was just far enough to merit a taxi. Soon we were wandering back into town and discovered a most annoying trait of this city. There is no way to cross the railway line to/from the station. It is a long detour on the ring road to access the Altstadt from the west side of the town. (Plans for a pedestrian bridge were on a billboard…)
The Münster certainly rivals Köln! It is as shear standing alone in the main platz. Kaffee und Kuchen
was mandatory for one of us. Hector watched.
Soon the primary purpose of the trip was underway, Gold Ochsen (Veitsbrunnenweg 3) had to be visited. The plant is actually reminiscent of the Hofbräu building at Tegernsee, yet there is nothing monastic, apparently about this building. There is no brewery tap in this city that the gateman was willing to offer. The shop had just closed. Fortunately we were able to fit in a quick visit the following morning to secure the bold, white polo shirt.
The postcards on view gave a simple summary of the more touristic attractions. We soon found ourselves passing the impressive Rathauskeller on the way down to the riverside. Ah, the Danube is still an impressive river even this far from the Black Sea. May Hector mention that this is not the source!
Even in the mid winter darkness, the Fischergasse looked as though it had atmosphere. Enough of this distraction, time for a taste of the Gold Ochsen Helles. The Allgäuer Hof, Fischergasse 12, seemed a homely place and despite being set up for evening meals, we were made welcome and the Helles was duly brought. Superb! Kellerbier was also on offer and even Andechs Doppelbock vom fass! This place would be a good back up if nothing else is discovered.
Hector had done his research. The Historiche Brauhaus Dreikannen, Hafenbad 3, we had passed on our way up to the brewery. This place was thoroughly charming. One suspects in summer it would be transformed with the inevitable throng outside. On a cold February night this was perfect. The house bier was ‘Humpfen’. Actually it was not that bad… One supposes it is brewed by the factory at the top of the street; however, Doris was not very helpful. ‘Is it a Helles?’…No. ‘Is it an Ungespundit?’…No. Just bring it.
Whatever, it was a dark gold and decidedly different from the Gold Ochsen Original as Hector had absorbed the apposite nomenclature for the local brew. A superb meal was served and Ulm felt like a good choice of destination. We retired to another locale the Herrenkeller, Herrengasse 4. This had all the tell tale signs of having been an old brewhouse. Any comments? That we returned the next night, says much for the relaxed ambience here.
A fast train to MemmingenDespite what the Bert at Memmingen Bahnhof had muttered the previous day, the Bayern Ticket is valid from Ulm, Baden-Württemberg to Memmingen, Bayern. This will be taken advantage of in September when the Bon Accord Travel Club returns to the Cannstatter Volksfest in Stuttgart!
One could not help notice the Tandoori across from the station in November.. .it was open, now! Despite having found an Indian restaurant in Ulm, this was very much a case of chapatti in the hand.
To describe the starter as the tastiest Indian soup ever is praise indeed. Hector has discovered that when the starters are good, the curry is not. The curry sauce was excellent. The lamb was probably ‘tandooried’ which is not my favourite. Next time the fish. There will be a next time!
Memmingen is small but perfectly formed. The historic core has impressive architecture. The snow was piled up high, bulldozers were collecting it, perhaps to take it to Canada for the Winter Olympics? After Marg had her shot at being a tourist it was down to business. The Blackberry guided us out of town and towards the ring road, Dr.-Karl-Lenz-Str. 68.
Inevitably, this was another factory, but the gateman was most helpful. He finally understood hector’s perfekt Dutch (sic) and suggested we try Zum Strauss in Ulmer Strasse. Negotiating even more of the town wall and portals the street was found. The Schwarz Ochsen was on a corner with an arch which clearly had Schenke inscribed on the stone arch. Behind was a modern looking wooden industrial building. The former brewery site? This was soon confirmed at Zum Staruss,Ulmer Strasse 13 . Five local biers on tap, this was quite a place. The Export was again another impressive Helles. The weizen, Kartäuser Hefe, had to be tried. Was ‘Derek Noon’ an influence here? It was quite thin, but the bananas were huge. A most unlikely surprise. This is a Hector recommendation!
Our second night in Ulm had its frustrations. The Zunfthaus der Schiffleute, Fischergass 31, looked impressive in the loal guide. Despite being a Tuesday night in February, this place was full. We adjourned to the nearby Allgauer Hof and were asked to sit at the bar and wait for a table. This place is clearly famous for its Pfannenkuchen. It will now become famous for the fact that after thirty minutes, Hector and Marg walked out. The Restaurant Zur Lochmühle, Gerbergasse 6 was empty and fed us well. Gold Ochsen is superb anywhere.
The Barfüsser Hausbrauerei, Am Lautenberg 1, was a classic modern day micro. The bier tasted homemade and is everything Hector wishes to avoid. The upstairs is a much better venue than the downstairs, be warned. And so it was back to the Herrenkeller and quality bieren.
