Monday 27 September 2010

The Bad Boys Club convenes in Karlsruhe, and Birmingam

Hector and Steve were not wearing a Thai

Steve and Hector found themselves in the Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof for lunch. A crowd of Deutsche-Thugs were escorted past us by the Chaps in Green, the latter were well armed. The Curry-Heute is related elsewhere. Karlsruhe boasts at least six Brauhaus so this was the objective for the day. Tram 3 became our weapon of assault for the afternoon.

The first stop was Wolf!



This is Brauerei Max Wolf (Marienstarsse 38, 76137) where the Export Helles was ordered by the six of us. It went down surprisingly easily given that by day three some of us were likely to flag a bit. Yes we know Jonathan started even before the other Wolf the previous weekend. The venue was very pleasant, food was available of course. We are still waiting for our order of Olives with Garlic.

Not much further out near Mendelssohnplatz lies Vogelbrau ( Kapellenstr 50, 76131). This was when Google Maps decided to tell Hector that he was proceeding in an orderly manner in one direction when in fact he was leading the party in the opposite. People are too used to Hector knowing where he is going: this was a first for all of us.

“Killed by soup!”

The microbrewery was to warm inside and so we assembled out back. The Bier, their Festbier was nothing to write home about. The Pumpkin soup was something else. Never in the field of soup consumption has so much soup been served to so few.




Tram 3 took us to our next stop, the Badisch Brauhaus (Stephanienstrasse 38, 76133).


This was a superb building, reminiscent on the outside to the Halve Maan in Brugge. Famous for its slide, Howard and Tracey did oblige us by disappearing into the void, an empty void. Once again the microbrewery Bier tasted somewhat homemade with yeast too evident.

Four breweries in one day

There was a suggestion that we return to Wolf as this was the best Bier today, however, Jonathan found us a new tram to take us to Hoepfner (Haid-und-Neu-Str 18, 76131). Steve had decided to wander around the Centrum instead of forcing down a final Bier in 25 minutes. Five of us had the Porter, gosh!
Karlsruhe looks as though it could be worth a more leisurely visit. The Schloss and the concentric road layout around it are interesting. Baden-Baden and Strasbourg lie beyond. In time we shall have covered every corner of Deutschland.
Back at Stuttgart, Howard and Tracey retired to their palatial suite. Robin, Jonathan, Steve and Hecotr headed back to the Andechshaus. Howard not going to Andechs? It was closed!

Sadly this meant we had to walk up to Paulaner (Calwer Strasse 45, 70173) and enjoy some Festbier. As Steve and I had missed out on this on Friday night this was not a bad outcome at all.
This was a day of self control and minimal imbibing. We had an early rise on Monday.







Aeroplanes have propellers?



This was our first ever FlyBe flight and perhaps not our last given the new routes that are opening. A two hour flight to Birmingham and a four hour stopover meant that Robin, Tracey and Howard, the BBC, could visit the famous Wellington bar (37 Bennetts Hill, Birmingham, West Midlands, B2 5SN). Hector, founder member of the GBC, went for a Curry-Heute. Steve did not have such a long stopover and so is no longer in this saga.



When Hector caught up with the BBC they had consumed some very strong Bier today and were in fine fettle. Salopian ‘Kashmir’ at 5.5% was just the aperitif for Thornbridge’s Halcyon at 7.7%. .



With more hand pumps than the Bon Accord this place was most impressive. With Bier on sale at over 5% this was most impressive. Handing over Scottish notes, priceless.

Sunday 26 September 2010

Canstatter Wasen : Stuttgart Oktoberfest

Sunshine in Memmingen

Somewhat frustratingly for a Friday morning Edinburgh – Memmingen flight courtesy of Mr O’Leary, there was a delay. We could then not leave Memmingen until the 15.30 train which gave us time for a Bier today in the former Memmingen Tandoori. Oh how Hector misses the Fish Soup and the prospect of the tastes to come.



It was raining in Stuttgart
The rendezvous at the Bierfest was in the smaller Hofbräuzelt that we had managed to get into last year around the same time in the early evening. Robin had found Jonathan at the Ibis, Howard and Tracey finally left their palatial suite but they were all too late to join Steve and Hector at the rendezvous – they could not get in.


Standing on the inside looking out


Meanwhile Hector and Steve were on their second table having moved to guarantee space for the slow coaches. Our first ten minutes was not comfortable. The entire population of Deutschland had apparently descended upon this tent. With an official kick-off of 17.00 we could not work out why the young assembly had gotten so far so soon. They were all smoking for Baden-Württemberg too: how we appreciate the outright ban in Bayern! We felt out of sorts.
Ten minutes or so later we were on the bench and only slightly in despair.

Hector and Steve were soon in the zone

By the time the rest joined us at our still maintained space, the party was well under way. The echtes air guitars were provided by Tracey. The photo taken of Hector is out of focus, I await another to post.




Robin announced that he thought the Hofbräu Bier was not worth staying for. Jonathan declared that after his days at the München Oktoberfest this was mouthwash. The four latecomers left early. Steve and Hector stayed on.


Eventually we went into the city for a Curry at Rita’s Garden. The taxi driver could not find it. Hector could not find it. In the end Steve and Hector could not find each other. We went home, separately.

After all, tomorrow is another day



There was a Curry-Heute

Hector and Steve then met up with the rest at the former Mathäser, a Bier Haus that has been closed on our last two Stuttgart trips. Today it was open: it is no longer the Mathäser, but we did drink Löwenbräu. The Platzhirsch (Geissstrasse 12)provided an array of oup, but nobody had the Pumpkin.

Won’t you go out with me in the rain?



It took a long time before we set out on the U11 to the Cansatter Wasen, again. The rain was pouring down. The day was not gemutlicht. Everyone was already inside.
We wandered around three of the main tents, could not even gain access to a fourth before we settled upon a small tent selling Dinkel Acker. This Bier was pronounced to be more favourable. However we all knew what the fallback was going to be.

In Stuttgart steht ein Andechshaus

We were made very welcome at the Andechshaus and were led to believe that the Helles and the Doppelbock Dunkel were available vom Fass. Only the former was on tap.
Mein Host invited Howard and Jonathan behind the bar to pour a Bier.


We came for the waters



A most surprising evening unfolded

Tracey kept complaining about the excellent music emanating from the jukebox. Steve and Hector debated whether I can really tell a Gibson from a Fender Strat or Telecaster. Then a familiar guitar sound was heard. It sounded like Roine Stolte. There are no vocals declared Hector, it must be this week’s Flower Kings release… then the vocals started… this was some twenty minutes into the epic… it is him! No, it’s Transatlantic : the vocals of Neale Morse gave this away. The jukebox was checked out: what a selection. Jonathan will no doubt have bought every Transatlantic CD by now (Marillion’s bass player). Spock’s Beard was also listed. Tracey was in agony. Robin hummed an old Slim Whitman tune. Howard was not wearing the Hilpoltstein t-shirt so he does not get quoted.


Ten minutes later the track ended. We needed Doppelbock, bottles sufficed.

Saturday 18 September 2010

Wolfer Strassenfest : aka Wolf Wine Fest

Trains, ‘Planes and Automobile

Jonathan went by car, Dr Stan went by train, and Hector went via Stansted to Hahn by ‘plane. (see the Curry Heute entry). Richard Allmacher, proprietor of Zur Goldenen Traube (am Markt, Traben-Trarbach) picked Hector up at the airport. It was a short drive down to the Mosel and breakfast with Jonathan awaited. One night, two breakfasts, novel. Jonathan had arrived the previous evening and had just as an exciting Friday night as I did. Dr Stan would arrive later.
The room key was provided at 11.00 and after a quick zzz it was time to re-rendezvous with Jonathan at the Schlossbergschänke. Rituals exist because they work.


There was a new chap behind the bar that used to be ‘Rolf’s’. Hector was greeted with ‘Sind zie Drausen?’ What? Not a good start to the day. Ensconced with two locals and Mein Host, the language skills started to return. Hector is not from the Netherlands, why do the Germans always think this?

Reissdorf Kölsch is Hector’s favourite Kölsch. What was served was the dreaded Pils. I know this, Jonathan knows this, and Mein Host who poured it insists it was. Last week’s Mühlen Kölsch was not as expected. Has something happened?
Across the Mosel from Trarbach lies Traben. The crossing of the bridge remains one of the most satisfying walks one can experience. Idyllic does not do this justice.
The Türmschen (aka ‘The Station Bar’) has Franziskaner vom Fass. What better a location is there to wait for Dr Stan who unfortunately missed his connections at Locken and Koblenz. What a silly Billy.

With an unheard of minimal alcohol intake it was time to let Dr Stan check in at his palatial accommodation, the Mosel Schlößchen.


The Trödelmarkt in Trarbach was quickly traversed in search of ‘The Tractor’. A subtle reconfiguration of the road layout had us fooled monetarily. The logical place to wait turned out to be the correct one. Minutes later it was off to Wolf!


We always start at the end where The Tractor stops and work our way towards the hub. By the time we reach the hub the town is buzzing. The Trocken Wein was purchased and so started an afternoon of wine consumption. The lunch stall sells scampi in garlic as a starter with a goulash made from Bambi’s Mum to follow. This is an excellent pit stop.




The highlight of the day is always the arrival at The Sekt stand. Other places may sell it too, but this is our stand.

By the time we moved on from here, the sun was going and the temperature was dropping. 0˚C was the forecast. Fortunately we found an inner room with heat. This was cozy.



Our final wine consumption was at the Hub where the steaks spin and the crowd assemble.


This year it was remarkably quiet. Those of who had lasted this long were well wrapped up. Had the forecasted temperature put people off?










The Tractor took us back to Trarbach and we of course descended upon ‘Frank’s’. He was surprised to see us. Staying at the Golden Traube once a year is permissible. It is something to do with a taxi for one from Hahn Airport not being affordable. The flights are always less than the cost of a return taxi trip.
Jonathan now drives on to Nurnberg. Dr Stan stays an extra night at Traben-Trarbach before joining him. There is a little Fest on in the south of Bayern. Hector has to go back home; however, the Canstatter Wasen awaits us next weekend in Stuttgart.