This is the real reason why Howard goes to Andechs.
The late Wednesday evening arrival in München saw some of us go for a Curry-Heute at the now called Lahori Hajweri. Howard went straight to Andechs to join Lord Clive and Maggie who unbelievably had started consuming the Ale without us.
The season must be ending and the staff tired. We did not get to consume much Andechs before we were back up the road to our new hotel – The Dolomit.
But wait…
A naughty boy insisted I go to the Sports’ Bar. It is now smoke free, a great improvement. The people of Bayern have gone the whole way and banned smoking. Nord Rhein Westphalia, watch out!
Howard, Steve and Juliet left ‘early’, Maggie went home…oh no she didn’t… she kept Clive and I company for another Franziskaner.
Thursday - On our way to Bamberg
We had a pleasant night by all accounts at The Dolomit. This is much cheaper than The Royal and the rooms are fine, though some missed the Royal breakfast.
There was a choice for our change of train at Nurnberg: rush down one pint or stay longer and have a leisurely two.
You do have Spezial Hell
Much better than Tegernsee’s equivalent was the conclusion.
Dr Stan was waiting
Meanwhile in Bamberg, Dr Stan had been exploring Deutschland on his relaxing journey to the SE of The Fatherland. The rendezvous was in Spezial. This was to give Juliet a gentle introduction to the smoky Bier that was to come. However, as we were nearer Keesmann we walked out to Underberg instead.
What have they done to my favourite Bier?
Last year, as is written, we had a ball at Keesmann. This year the Bier is far too sweet. Far too sweet. Far too sweet. Why? This did not stop us having one or more for the sake of quality control.
I do not know who ate the wonderful looking Pork Chop on display. If it was not me, I wish it had been.
Call me a taxi
A taxi took five of us to Schlenkerla, Dr Stan and Maggie walked. Strange, they arrived not long after us.
Time for what even Dr Stan had to accept was the Bier of the trip – The Schlenkerla Urbock. Smoked Sausage in a glass with Bacon Crisps poured in for good measure. Ever so strongly smoked!
Late night drinking? What is that? Turned out after 23.00 it was not difficult for Hector to assume the role of ‘last out’. Tomorrow is another day.
Friday – Mahrs Bock Day
The worst Curry encountered in ten years is reported in Curry-Heute, such was the only Curryhaus in Bamberg. The rendezvous was Schlenkerla at 13.00. The waitress was astonished to see us back already. Steve insists that Schlenkerla is best enjoyed as the first Bier of the day, not as a late night afterthought. This Bier is stunning at any time.
A gentle afternoon here was followed by a stroll to Mahrs. Dr Stan and Hector had a notion that the Bock would be tapped around 17.00 Our ‘stroll’ saw us outsprint the others and we gained access with Howard to the courtyard, and no more.
At 16.45 a queue spontaneously formed at a window: the Bock was tapped!
We were in the first dozen to taste this year’s Mahrs Bock, an honour. It was very fine indeed. The others had not arrived; they were in a queue outside. The queue just grew longer and longer. By the time we finished our double round – (whose idea was that?) the queue was around the block.
We bluffed our way into Keesmann and managed to secure a table: this place was mobbed with the overflow.
Fish for dinner. Then back to Schlenkerla. An early night.
Saturday – a trip to Forchheim
Happy Birthday, Juliet!
The rendezvous was Fässla.
Dr Stan, Hector, Clive and Maggie headed on the train to Forchheim. Steve and Juliet stayed in Bamberg. Where was Howard?
You do have Spezial Hell! Howard was in Nurnberg!
Four went to Forchheim
Dr Stan, Hector, Lord Clive and Maggie took advantage of the Bayern Ticket and saved about €0.45 in doing so. The plan was to visit the three adjacent breweries on the man square: Greif, Hebendanz and Neder.
Normally two are open, on the last visit Greif was closed, usually our favourite. Greif was closed again, and then we found out that the Gastatte has been closed for some time, the Tap is now at the Brewery.
Clive and Maggie bringing up the rear went straight into Neder. The place looked brighter and the ban on smoking improved the atmosphere measurably. The Bier was ordered and soon the locals were intrigued by our presence. Slices of a Fiery, Smokey Cheese were coming our way from the adjacent table. We could take it. But Hector must track this down. By the time we left we were locals too.
Next door in Hebendanz the décor was also greatly improved. On asking the barman when this had been done it turned out to have some three to four years previously. But surely we came last February for Dr Stan’s ‘Farewell Lecture Tour’ and it was not like this? The place was quiet apart from the radio with a football commentary: this was no Station Bar in Traben-Trarbach with a live Sky feed. But it was smoke-free. Superb!
Buttenheim – Das Ritual
We always stop off at Buttenheim on the way back, it is written. Löwen Bräu is one of our all time favourite destinations. Visiting Hansi Modschiedler is a must.
We strutted in - in two pairs: Dr Stan and Hector then the turtles with short legs. The place was stowed, but we managed to get a table. Mein Host did the usual double take, after all he sees us once a year on average. OK, Dr Stan had been there the day before.
Soon Howard emerged from the darkness having checked into his fourth hotel in four nights. (He really does need someone to plan his trips for him…). Food was the order of the moment. We ate heartily and drank a very dry Bier at prices one could not believe. €1.80 per half litre, still.
Weniger Ente
Howard had ordered the Fish. Howard had arrived last. We were counting down the minutes to catch the train and Howard’s meal had not arrived.
Half Man – Half Fish
Last year Clive and Maggie missed the train. Not this year. A taxi to Schlenkerla was called for; even Dr Stan saw the sense in this. (Far too much compliance from the Doctor these days.)
Meeting up with Steve and Juliet there was a spontaneous singing of ‘Happy Birthday’… or ‘Schöne Geburtstag’ to be more accurate.
Why do the staff at Schlenkerla keep asking us to leave when they close? Do they not realise that we would prefer to stay longer? Another early night.
Sunday – Back to München – to visit the Indian Mango, and have Bier…
A relatively early RE took us back to München in time for lunch at one of the best Curry Houses ever encountered. We all went for Curry. (Except Dr Stan who was still resident in Bamberg.)
What to do next? Howard disappeared. Steve and Juliet went away to be tourists. Hector, Lord Clive and Maggie went to the Augustiner Grossgastatte for first Oktoberfest Bier and then Edelstoff. Nothing surprising here then.
Howard reappeared; no he had not gone to Kloster Andechs but had been tempted. He went back to ‘Am Dom’ to ask if they had Spezial Hell. They didn’t. Why not?
easyJet, aye right
Hector (and Marg’s) previous two flight back from München this year with easyJet were cancelled. Snow and a volcano, any excuse. The security queue at München Flughafen was ridiculous. Somehow Clive and Maggie managed to access via a different gate as their flight was earlier and a wee panic could have set in. The flight to Edinburgh was surprisingly on time, nay early. Clive and Maggie, comforted by a voucher for a few Euros had to sit and wait for three hours, nearly coming fowl of the airport curfew.
