Ah dinnae speak Dumfries nae mare...

Today we went Doonhame to the Dumfries Real Ale Festival of course!

Well, some of us did.

In order to maintain the Glasgow CAMRA spirit of travel, we even went by separate trains. Howard, Tracey and Jonathan were on the ridiculously early 10.12 from Glasgow Central. David, Dr Stan, Robin, Marg and Hector were on the more sociable 12.12. The question has to be asked yet again about the pricing structures of for rail travel in the UK. Why is it dearer to buy a return ticket from outlying stations via Glasgow to Dumfries than it is to buy two separate returns? More importantly, why is there no regional group ticket as is available throughout Germany? In Germany five people can travel for a fiver each, here the prices are simply a rip-off.









First stop for the majority was the New Bazaar, a traditional pub sited on the banks of the River Nith.
Arran ab was the bier of choice except for Dr Stan who had the Houston Doonhamer, and David who went straight for the Leffe Blond on draught. Cold, yellow fizzy bier to start? This boy will be drummed out of…sorry welcomed to the inner sanctum who really prefer to…

Marg went a wandering and saw much more of Dumfries than the rest of us. Here is the charming non-bier adventure that Marg enjoyed in what is Burns’ Country, steeped in history.














Thornbridge’s Jaipur IPA was reportedly on ‘around the corner’ in The Caven Arms. The first finished headed off to the pub which has won the Pub of the Year in SW Scotland (and N Ireland!?) for the last few years. Robin and Hector were distracted by the Phoenix Arizona which features too rarely at our local. Dr Stan opted for something different, for a change; as he was resplendent in a Fyne Ales t-shirt, he thought he better have the Crannog.











Marg made a brief return and for the first time toady the entire company was under the same roof at the same time. Yes it was time for Jaipur IPA, surely one of the best ales brewed in the UK? (And yes, we have all had it At Source!). The question then becomes, why leave such a brilliant pub with such a great range of ales? We were joined by Liam Chalmers of local CAMRA fame. The jungle drums had been beating: where was the group reportedly down from The Bon Accord? The induction was brought to us and we were suitably badged up. Marg declined: “You can keep your stinkin’ badges…”




And so Robin Dr Stan and Hector retired to the local Wetherspoons and not a token between us. The Robert the Bruce is architecturally impressive being a former Methodist kirk. It is also relatively small for a Wetherspoons, the price of the bottled bier is less than in Glasgow, but the ales are dearer. The service was also impressive, the first time I have ever been able to make this remark about a pub in this chain. Sadly the biers were unremarkable. And so off to what turned out be the highlight of the day.







Broons Bar, on English St,was selling a bier from the Madcap Brewery of Annan, this was as local as bier could get. “Triple Madness” at 9% was a certain suicide solution: at £2 a pint it was indeed madness. This was by far the bier of the Festival and as it did not drink at anywhere near the labelled 9%, one pint would be enough.










It was around this time that Marg decided that her trip to Dumfries was not all it could have been. Where/when was the tour promised by The Planner? Was it time to eat? We had passed a curry house in a magnificent building but it was full. It was the fourth totally empty Chinese restaurant that became the venue for dinner. It was ok.






By now the early risers had gone home. Dr Stan was a.w.o.l. and Jonathan was back at his old haunts. And so Hector and Marg arrived at the Waverley Bar. We had passed this at the station and Liam had expressed his surprise that we had not gone there first. Liam was in attendance and so our group reassembled slowly in time for the last train. Hector had the Waverley Steamer, Dr Stan had something different; he had the Vital Spark.

This was more of an Ale Trail than a traditional hall held festival. It was a good idea. I doubt if Glasgow could hold such an event, we hardly have enough quality pubs and too many of us would refuse to set foot in certain establishments. There is absolutely no truth to the rumour that Hector was asleep on the long journey back from Dumfries. The time signature on this blog is surely evidence enough?

Steve, do you fancy a 'swift half'...in Traben-Trabach?

Hector turns the clock back, it is time for a one night trip to Deutschland.



Mr O'Leary has done away with all Friday night flights to The Fatherland and so needs must. Glasgow (Prestwick) used to be the airport of choice, these days it is from the capital: you'll have had your direct bus from Glasgow to Edinburgh Aiport?


Zwolf Grad hier am Traben-Trarbach, almost short sleeve muster.





















Watching Das Bundesliga live in the Türmschen, Hector observes that the standard ain't that Spezial.
Stuttgart have yet to score, so Mein Host is ...update...Frankfurt score...Stuttgart are losing...a sharp exit?...nay...Weez are at home...Stuttgart equalize! Bring on the Franziskaner.
What a screamer, Cacau, Stuttgart go ahead right on Halpzeit...party on....












Stuttgart win...Hoffenheim's second goal against Hertha Berlin? Skill! Steve reckons he can do that trick....maybe the Bundesliga is beyond the SPL...













And so we left the 'Station Bar' and headed towards 'The Bridge'. The Bruckenschenke occupies both floors of the gateway arch to Trarbach, this is a very special place too. The first big staff (7 years ago?) trip saw us occupy the upper room all afternoon, a later trip saw us take the salute as the carnival parade passed uderneath. Usually one sits watching the barges heading up and down the Mosel. If it is a Sunday afternoon one is usally having Kafe und Kuchen, oftentimes it is bier. Today is Kolsch! of the Gaffel variety.





Dinner at the Golden Traube is becoming another ritual. Bottles of Weissburgunder were favoured over the draught perfume the Germans call Pils. The Moselmenu at €18 remains excellent value even with the terrible state of Sterling. The animal dripping with bacon bits and bread is an immense entree. This was devoured, more was demanded, it was provided. The soup, the inevitable pork main course and wait for it........ vanilla ice cream with pour your own massive hot raspberries! Hector does not typically do dessert, however, this is of Carlsberg proportions.













Marilise aka Frau Allmacher served us well, but where was Mein Host? Richard duly arrived and after warming up his violin at the big table we would normally occupy on the far side, he and Steve on acoustic guitar were having their usual jam.

We were at the Traube for three hours!

Hector was last out!




Hami's across the road was quiet. However a chap who calls himslef 'Bocki' recognised us and kept ordering the cough mixture known as Jaegermeister. We returned the pleasure, he bought us more... not a good idea...We were there for the Altbier and the Kolsch.

Finally it is back home to the Altstadt Cafe to find Frank at his usual place behind the bar and Rosi on the preferred side. Reissdorf Kolsch is surely the best?

The early rise for a 09.45 flight to Scotland is always a killer. Fortunately we would be back to accompany the happy chappies at the Bon Accord where surely Glasgow Rangers would beat the other mob and go ten points clear?

Memories of Memmingen, and unforgettable Ulm

Avid readers will know that in mid November, a large troop of us took advantage of Mr O’Leary’s kind offer of flight to ‘München West’ as the Allgäu Airport has now been renamed by Ryanair. Early research had suggested that Memmingen may be a destination in its own right. However, when it came to booking accommodation, the choices were quite restricted.

Unfortunately the Ryanair flight from Edinburgh connects with the worst possible train to Ulm, a whole hour instead of a possible 23 minutes or so. There was still some light when Marg and Hector arrived at Ulm Hbf. Boy was it cold. The Comfor Hotel, Blaubeurer Strasse was just far enough to merit a taxi. Soon we were wandering back into town and discovered a most annoying trait of this city. There is no way to cross the railway line to/from the station. It is a long detour on the ring road to access the Altstadt from the west side of the town. (Plans for a pedestrian bridge were on a billboard…)








The Münster certainly rivals Köln! It is as shear standing alone in the main platz. Kaffee und Kuchen
was mandatory for one of us. Hector watched.
Soon the primary purpose of the trip was underway, Gold Ochsen (Veitsbrunnenweg 3) had to be visited. The plant is actually reminiscent of the Hofbräu building at Tegernsee, yet there is nothing monastic, apparently about this building. There is no brewery tap in this city that the gateman was willing to offer. The shop had just closed. Fortunately we were able to fit in a quick visit the following morning to secure the bold, white polo shirt.
























The postcards on view gave a simple summary of the more touristic attractions. We soon found ourselves passing the impressive Rathauskeller on the way down to the riverside. Ah, the Danube is still an impressive river even this far from the Black Sea. May Hector mention that this is not the source!
Even in the mid winter darkness, the Fischergasse looked as though it had atmosphere. Enough of this distraction, time for a taste of the Gold Ochsen Helles. The Allgäuer Hof, Fischergasse 12, seemed a homely place and despite being set up for evening meals, we were made welcome and the Helles was duly brought. Superb! Kellerbier was also on offer and even Andechs Doppelbock vom fass! This place would be a good back up if nothing else is discovered.








Hector had done his research.

The Historiche Brauhaus Dreikannen, Hafenbad 3, we had passed on our way up to the brewery. This place was thoroughly charming. One suspects in summer it would be transformed with the inevitable throng outside. On a cold February night this was perfect. The house bier was ‘Humpfen’. Actually it was not that bad… One supposes it is brewed by the factory at the top of the street; however, Doris was not very helpful. ‘Is it a Helles?’…No. ‘Is it an Ungespundit?’…No. Just bring it.





















Whatever, it was a dark gold and decidedly different from the Gold Ochsen Original as Hector had absorbed the apposite nomenclature for the local brew. A superb meal was served and Ulm felt like a good choice of destination. We retired to another locale the Herrenkeller, Herrengasse 4. This had all the tell tale signs of having been an old brewhouse. Any comments? That we returned the next night, says much for the relaxed ambience here.

A fast train to Memmingen

Despite what the Bert at Memmingen Bahnhof had muttered the previous day, the Bayern Ticket is valid from Ulm, Baden-Württemberg to Memmingen, Bayern. This will be taken advantage of in September when the Bon Accord Travel Club returns to the Cannstatter Volksfest in Stuttgart!




One could not help notice the Tandoori across from the station in November.. .it was open, now! Despite having found an Indian restaurant in Ulm, this was very much a case of chapatti in the hand.
To describe the starter as the tastiest Indian soup ever is praise indeed. Hector has discovered that when the starters are good, the curry is not. The curry sauce was excellent. The lamb was probably ‘tandooried’ which is not my favourite. Next time the fish. There will be a next time!







Memmingen is small but perfectly formed. The historic core has impressive architecture. The snow was piled up high, bulldozers were collecting it, perhaps to take it to Canada for the Winter Olympics? After Marg had her shot at being a tourist it was down to business. The Blackberry guided us out of town and towards the ring road, Dr.-Karl-Lenz-Str. 68.





Inevitably, this was another factory, but the gateman was most helpful. He finally understood hector’s perfekt Dutch (sic) and suggested we try Zum Strauss in Ulmer Strasse. Negotiating even more of the town wall and portals the street was found. The Schwarz Ochsen was on a corner with an arch which clearly had Schenke inscribed on the stone arch. Behind was a modern looking wooden industrial building. The former brewery site? This was soon confirmed at Zum Staruss,Ulmer Strasse 13 . Five local biers on tap, this was quite a place. The Export was again another impressive Helles. The weizen, Kartäuser Hefe, had to be tried. Was ‘Derek Noon’ an influence here? It was quite thin, but the bananas were huge. A most unlikely surprise. This is a Hector recommendation!

























Our second night in Ulm had its frustrations. The Zunfthaus der Schiffleute, Fischergass 31, looked impressive in the loal guide. Despite being a Tuesday night in February, this place was full. We adjourned to the nearby Allgauer Hof and were asked to sit at the bar and wait for a table. This place is clearly famous for its Pfannenkuchen. It will now become famous for the fact that after thirty minutes, Hector and Marg walked out. The Restaurant Zur Lochmühle, Gerbergasse 6 was empty and fed us well. Gold Ochsen is superb anywhere.





The Barfüsser Hausbrauerei, Am Lautenberg 1, was a classic modern day micro. The bier tasted homemade and is everything Hector wishes to avoid. The upstairs is a much better venue than the downstairs, be warned. And so it was back to the Herrenkeller and quality bieren.

Glasgow, Hector's Home

Is that a blue sky above München?



There is a bright yellow light in the sky that we have not seen clearly for this entire trip. Surely, Stelios will have no feeble excuse to pull the flights?

A security issue

Marg bought Hector 200ml of quality Senf in the departure lounge two days ago. Is this not the ultimate irony of the application of the no liquids rule?
And it was goodbye to the Senf...unless Marg checked it in. Aye, right! €2.20, if that is our only additional outlay today, we will have won a watch.

In a statement of total confidence in easyJet, Hector changes into a clean wardrobe...now for my next trick...

Hector's handheld technology confirms the inbound is airborne and on time. The first Bier Today should be with the chaps at the Allison Arms.

Hector and Marg board plane @ 14.04.



Safely home at The Allison Arms

Tegernsee, Hector's House

The snow lay on the ground, six feet deep; Hector had to stand on his hands, to warm his feet.






Today's Blog is dedicated to The Stalybridge Six.
The theme could be relieve The München Two.

It is an ill wind that blows nobody any good. You can take Marg to bier but you can't make her drink. You must be Don Francisco's sister? No, it's a greater pleasure for me. Your turn...






Here the Helles is always Spezial. The soup is always goulash. Who said Tegernsee is a one trick pony?

They sell a splendid array of postcards here too.

Marg amuses herself with tea, deep fried camembert with cranberry, then apple donuts with ice cream. Hector watches in amusement.


The Sleazy website suggests all München departures are kosher today, pity we are scheduled for tomorrow.
One thinks: he who laughs last...